Saturday, July 18, 2009

Observations... Todo, We´re Not in Kansas Anymore

There is something about flying someplace that makes you unaware of the distance that has actually been traveled. Like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz I was picked up by a tornado in Chicago and dropped down again in Peru in a relatively short amount of time. Still I´m reminded, nearly every moment, that I have now entered the Land of Oz. Following are just a few observations from my new life in Peru.

1.) Dogs and children are everywhere. When I first arrived I was told that the average family has five children. Victor himself comes from a family of twelve. Then to make things just a little more crowded and unruly, I am also positive that for every child born the family adopts five dogs.

2.) Despite all my efforts to color my hair dark I am considered a blonde here. While men on the street yell to me ¨¡Rubia!¨[Blonde!] I considered the call to be just another name for people from the north like ¨gringo.¨ This is what I thought until Iris told me my hair was a beautiful color (btw, I´ve also been told that my eyes are the color of a peacock... I love this country!). Victor chimed in and said,
¨Yes, it´s the color of gold.¨
Gold!?! ¨You think I´m a blonde, not a red head or brunette?¨
¨Nope, you´re blonde.¨
Hmm... very confusing and I look forward to seeing how they react when Amy Fisher, a real blonde, comes to visit.

3.) Like Chicago, Huancayo is a city with many pedestrians but here cars always have the right-of-way. Stop sigs, while extremely rare, are merely a suggestion and a horn must be honked at every intersection. Needless to say, walking or driving must be done ¨con cuidado.¨

4.) Whoa is me. Please prepare yourself for a little bit of whining... Every morning, weekday or weekend, I wake up at 5am. I stumble to the bathroom, turn on the water heater to give the water some time to reach a temperature above freezing and then go back to bed until 6am. When my alarm goes off for the second time I return to the bathroom and turn on the shower only to get a small trickle of luke warm water that doesn´t even have enough pressure to rinse the suds off my hands. Ten minutes into my shower I´m usually shaking it´s so cold. I jump out and dry off with one of my long sleeved t-shirts (there is only one communal towel in the bathroom and it´s usually wet, stinks, and hasn´t been washed since my arrival). This process makes me long for a hot shower back home and I wonder what those of lesser means have to go through if this is what it is like for my upper-middle class family.

5.) Jesus and topless blondes are regarded with nearly equal fervor and passion. In fact, pictures of both, usually one right next to the other, can be found in almost every public place.

6.) It´s nearly impossible for me to describe where Chicago is.
¨¿Is it by Mexico?¨
¨No.¨
¨¿Is it by Texas then?¨
¨No, it´s north... kind of by Canada.¨
¨¿Oh... Chicago is in California, right?¨
¨No, Illinois.¨
¨Never heard of it.¨

7.) Shopping presents its own set of challenges... one type of food can be bought here, another type there. Notebooks and pens are only available at the store down the street. I have yet to find hairspray and foolishly spent $9 USD on a tube of mascara.

8.) I have been asked many times if Chicago looks like Huancayo. This is a difficult question to answer half due to my inability to speak Spanish well and half due to the limited exposure to life outside of Huancayo that the questioner usually has. The only place I´ve seen in the US that can somewhat be related to Huancayo are portions of Appalacia although that is not even an accurate description. I have never seen such a juxtaposition of the wealthy and poor as I´ve seen in Huancayo. Modern architecture, a house that would seemingly cost millions in the US, sits next to a one room home whose mud walls have collapsed. So how do I describe the glass and steel skyscrapers that block out the sun, the lack of grass and trees (at least in my part of Chicago) and the relative cleanliness of my city compared to Huancayo?

9.) I live in a house with two other women and one man and yet the toilet seat is always left up. Perhaps this is just a small indication of the male dominated society in which I now reside.

10.) Everything that I am in the US (at least appearance-wise) is exagerated in Huancayo. I am tall at home... I am Andre the Giant here. ¨¿How tall are you in meters?¨¨¿How big are your feet?¨¨At such and such celebration no boys will dance with you because you are so tall.¨ Please excuse me as my 6th grade insecurities come rushing back. In the US I´m considered fair skinned. Here I´m gostly and have been told many times that my skin in the color of milk. I am aware of this fact but after spending a day with Peruanos whose indigenous blood runs much thicker than that of any European ancestory, when I look in the mirrow I even startle myself at times.

So these are my observations from my little corner of the world in Peru. Please remember that I have only been here two weeks and I hope my observations are not too naive at the moment. I am sure they will continue to evolve with time.

7 comments:

  1. Heathie,

    I think your thoughts were honest and quite profound. I know that living in Germany for that very short month was enough to make me feel completly removed from everything familiar, and that is nothing compared to the culture shock you're experiencing. I know that this endeavor is going to make you grow as a person and understand more about the world and eventually yourself. I so look forward to reading your posts, and I love you very much.

    Emmy

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  2. Hi! John showed me your blog and it's really making me want to go travelling again (even though yours is work related - lucky!) Your posts are kind of reminding me of myself - like the tiger bedspread, I laughed becuase I've come across a few of those in Latin America. I've also been trying to learn spanish and my conversations also come out like "purple flowers pretty!" And have experienced the tallest gringa on the dance floor thing..haha Your host family sounds so nice and how many people can say they have peacock eyes? Keep up the great writing. I can't wait to read about the cuy. It's not a meal you will forget anytime soon!

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  3. Emmy - Miss you bunches! It´s amazing how much a person can learn from travelling. I´m sure I´m going to take a lot away from my time in Peru. This is only the begining...

    Love you!

    Heathie

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  4. Sara -

    Nice to meet you... I just spent the last hour or so reading about your adventures in Central America for your birthday. Fabulous!!! As much as I miss my family and friends at home I´m sooo tempted to take a month off after this whole thing is over and travel around South and Central America. I mean, why not, right!?! You´ll have to let me know if you go on any other great adventures. Got to love the life of a traveler...

    Cheers!

    Heather

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  5. Heather,

    You are such a great writer! I absolutely love reading your posts. Seriously - send me a list of things you want/need and I will put together a care package asap! Like that mascara for instance : ) J. Graves sent me a care package in Togo that was full of make-up and skin products that were absoulutely ridiculous to have in W. Africa but made me so happy for the month that they lasted : ) I can't wait until you start working and we get to hear about those adventures! Totally wanted to call you last night and had to remind myself you are thousands of miles away having the most amazing experience ever. So jealous AF is coming to visit! Ok, this is turning into an email. I'm stopping. HUG - P.L.

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  6. Paigie!!!! Miss you miss you miss you. I´ll probably take you up on that care package list one of these days. I´m such a girl and probably the only woman in Huancayo that needs hair mousse, hairspray and makeup. It´s definitely a flaw but hey, I´d rather not scare away the locals with my crazy pale face... best to cover it up with a little bit of makeup. :) Anyway, I´m totally looking forward to starting work too. It´s going to be a great experience as long as I can get this Spanish down! Anyway, I promise Cali will be one of my first stops once I return to the states this winter (it´s so wierd not to be able to call you whenever)! Loves!

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